What bulb does my side marker light use?

Most side marker lights use a small wedge-base bulb like a 194, 168, or 2825. Some older vehicles and trucks use a bayonet-style 1157 or 67 bulb. A few newer cars have LEDs built into the housing, which means you replace the whole unit instead of just the bulb. Check your owner's manual or use our vehicle finder to get the exact bulb number for your year, make, and model.

Where are the side marker lights on my car?

Side marker lights are the small amber lights on the front fenders and the small red lights on the rear fenders. They sit between the headlights and tail lights, usually near the wheel wells. On some vehicles, the front side marker is built into the corner of the headlight assembly. On others, it's a separate unit mounted in the fender.

Can I get a ticket for a burned out side marker light?

Yes, you can. Federal regulations require side marker lights on all vehicles sold in the US since 1968. Most states enforce this, and a burned out side marker gives police a reason to pull you over. The fix costs a few dollars and takes 15 minutes, so there's no reason to risk the ticket.

Should I upgrade my side marker lights to LED?

LED side marker bulbs are a common upgrade. They're brighter, last longer, and give a cleaner look. Just make sure you get the right size. Some LED bulbs are slightly wider or longer than stock and might not fit inside the housing. On some vehicles, LEDs can cause a fast-flash issue or a dashboard warning because they draw less power. An anti-flicker resistor or LED-compatible flasher relay solves that.

Is the side marker the same as the turn signal?

They're different lights, but they can share a housing on some vehicles. Side markers stay on steadily when your headlights or parking lights are on. On many cars, the front side marker also blinks along with the turn signal. But they use separate bulbs or circuits in most cases. If your turn signal works but the side marker is out (or vice versa), they're on different bulbs.

How to Replace a Side Marker Light (Step by Step)

Side marker light burned out? Good news. This is one of the simplest light repairs on any car. About 15 minutes, a basic screwdriver, and a bulb that costs a few bucks. Here's the full walkthrough.

What You'll Need

New side marker light bulb or assembly (matched to your year, make, and model)
Phillips head screwdriver (for fender-mounted markers with screws)
Flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool (for prying out the lens or clips)
10mm socket (some vehicles mount the marker with a small bolt)
About 15 minutes

Step by Step Instructions

Figure Out What Type You Have

Side marker lights come in two main styles. The first is a standalone unit mounted in the fender. It has its own small housing and lens, usually held in by a screw or a clip. The second type is built into the headlight assembly (front) or tail light assembly (rear). If you look at your fender and see a separate little amber or red lens, that's a standalone marker. If you don't see a separate lens, the marker is integrated into the main headlight or tail light housing, and you'll access the bulb from behind the assembly under the hood or inside the trunk.

Access the Side Marker

For standalone fender-mounted markers, look for a small Phillips screw at the top or side of the lens. Remove it and gently pry the housing out of the fender. Some markers use a spring clip instead of a screw. Slide the housing toward the front of the car and it'll pop out. For markers built into the headlight assembly, open the hood and look at the back or side of the headlight housing. The side marker socket is usually the smallest one, off to the side. On some vehicles you may need to remove a fender liner or wheel well splash guard to reach it.

Remove the Old Bulb

Once you have the housing or socket in your hand, twist the bulb socket counterclockwise about a quarter turn and pull it out of the housing. Then pull the old bulb straight out of the socket. Most side marker bulbs are small wedge-base types (194, 168) that just pull out. While the socket is out, take a look at the contacts inside. If you see green corrosion or discoloration, clean them with fine sandpaper or a small wire brush. Corroded contacts are the number one reason new bulbs burn out quickly.

Install the New Bulb

Push the new bulb into the socket. Wedge-base bulbs go straight in until they're snug. If you're installing an LED replacement and it doesn't light up when you test it, pull it out and flip it around. Many LED bulbs are polarity-sensitive, so reversing the orientation fixes the problem. If you're replacing the entire housing (common on vehicles with sealed LED side markers), connect the wiring harness plug to the new unit before snapping it into the fender.

Test and Reassemble

Before buttoning everything up, plug the socket back in and turn on your parking lights or headlights. Walk around the car and check that the side marker is lit. On vehicles where the side marker blinks with the turn signal, activate the turn signal and confirm it flashes. If it all works, push the housing back into the fender, tighten any screws or clips, and you're done.

Tips and Things to Watch For

Front markers are amber, rear markers are red. This is a federal requirement. Don't put a red bulb or lens in the front, or a clear/amber one in the rear. If you're upgrading to LEDs, make sure you get the right color for each position.
Check the rubber gasket. Fender-mounted side markers usually have a small rubber gasket or seal between the housing and the body. If it's cracked or missing, water will get behind the lens and corrode the socket. Replace the gasket if it looks worn. A thin bead of silicone works in a pinch.
Do both sides at once. If one side marker burned out, the other is likely close behind. The bulbs cost next to nothing. Save yourself a second trip and do both sides while you're at it.
Don't force the housing. Side marker housings are held in by small plastic clips or tabs. If it's not coming out easily, look for a hidden screw or retaining tab you missed. Forcing it can crack the fender paint or snap the mounting tab off the housing.

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