Can you drive with a daytime running light out?

In most US states, yes. DRLs aren't required by federal law, so a burned-out one won't get you a ticket. But in Canada, DRLs are mandatory and you can be fined. Either way, they're a real safety feature. Other drivers spot you sooner with them on.

Are daytime running lights the same as headlights?

Sometimes, but not always. Some cars use the headlight bulbs at reduced power for DRLs. Others have separate dedicated DRL bulbs, often LEDs built into the housing. Check your owner's manual to find out which setup your vehicle uses.

How much does it cost to fix a daytime running light?

If it's the bulb, you're looking at $10 to $30 for a halogen or $20 to $60 for an LED replacement. A blown fuse is under $5. If the DRL module is bad, that's $50 to $200 for the part plus labor. Most DRL fixes are cheap and simple.

Why do both my daytime running lights turn off when I turn on my headlights?

That's normal on many vehicles. Some cars dim or switch off the DRLs when the headlights or parking lights are activated. The headlights take over the visibility job. If they don't come back on when you turn headlights off, then you have a problem.

Daytime Running Light Not Working? Here's How to Fix It

You noticed that little light in the front of your car isn't coming on anymore. Maybe just one side, maybe both. Daytime running lights are simple systems, and the fix is usually straightforward. Here's where to start.

What Daytime Running Lights Actually Do

DRLs are low-intensity lights that turn on automatically when your engine is running. They're not for helping you see. They're for helping other people see you. Studies show they reduce daytime collisions by 5 to 10 percent.

Every car sold in Canada since 1990 has them. In the US, they're not required but most manufacturers include them anyway. Your DRLs might use dedicated bulbs, your low-beam bulbs at reduced power, or LED strips built into the headlight housing.

When they stop working, the cause depends a lot on which type your car has. Let's narrow it down.

Only One DRL Is Out? It's Probably the Bulb

If one side works and the other doesn't, the bulb is the most likely culprit. This is especially true if your DRLs use halogen bulbs. They wear out over time, just like headlight bulbs.

Here's how to confirm:

Start the car and make sure the headlights are off (DRLs only come on with headlights off on most cars).
Look at both DRL positions from the front. One on, one off? Bulb issue.
Check your owner's manual for the DRL bulb type. On many vehicles, it's the same as the high beam or low beam run at lower voltage.
Replace the dead bulb. If the DRL comes back on, you're done.

If your car has LED DRLs built into the headlight assembly, you usually can't replace just the LED. You'll need the whole headlight assembly. That's a bigger job and a bigger expense.

Both DRLs Out? Check These Three Things

When both sides go dark at the same time, it's almost never both bulbs dying simultaneously. Something upstream is the problem.

1. The DRL fuse. Your fuse box has a dedicated fuse for the daytime running lights. Check your owner's manual for the location. Pull it out and look at the metal strip inside. If it's broken, that's your problem. Replace it with the same amperage fuse. Cost: under $5.

2. The DRL relay. The relay is what switches power to the DRL circuit. A failing relay might work intermittently before quitting entirely. It's usually in the fuse box or a relay box under the hood. Swap it with an identical relay from a non-critical circuit to test. If the DRLs come back, buy a new relay for $10 to $25.

3. The DRL module. Some vehicles have a separate control module that manages DRL behavior. If the fuse and relay are fine, the module could be the issue. This one is harder to diagnose at home. A scan tool that reads body control module codes can point you in the right direction. Module replacement runs $50 to $200 for the part.

The "Not Actually Broken" Scenario

Before you start replacing parts, make sure your DRLs are actually supposed to be on. A few things can turn them off by design:

Parking brake engaged. Many vehicles disable DRLs when the parking brake is on. Release it and check again.
Headlights turned on. Some cars switch off DRLs when you manually turn on headlights or parking lights.
DRLs disabled in settings. Some newer vehicles let you turn DRLs off through the infotainment system or instrument cluster menu. Someone may have toggled it.
Ambient light sensor. A few vehicles use a light sensor to decide if DRLs are needed. If the sensor is dirty or blocked, it might think it's dark enough for full headlights and skip the DRLs entirely.

Check these before spending money on parts. You might save yourself a trip to the auto parts store.

LED DRLs: A Different Situation

If your car has LED daytime running lights, the repair picture changes. LED DRLs are often individual LEDs soldered into the headlight housing. When one LED in the strip dies, the whole strip might go dark depending on how it's wired.

You usually can't replace a single LED. Your options are:

Replace the headlight assembly. This is the official fix. Aftermarket assemblies with LED DRLs run $80 to $300. OEM is more.
LED DRL repair. Some specialty shops can re-solder individual LEDs. It's cheaper but finding someone who does this well isn't easy.
Aftermarket DRL kit. You can add separate LED DRL strips or pods if you don't mind the look. Kits run $20 to $80.

The good news is that LED DRLs last much longer than halogen bulbs. If yours died early, it's worth checking the wiring and ground connection before assuming the LEDs themselves failed.

Need a replacement headlight assembly?

If your DRL is built into the headlight housing, you'll need the full assembly. Enter your vehicle to find exact-fit options.

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